Seed Storage
Cannabis is a tough plant whose seeds will retain the ability to germinate under a wide range of conditions. The biggest threat to the seeds is moisture, both the atmospheric and surface film types. The cannabis seed is safely stored under dry conditions and can withstand temperatures up to 98.6° F. (the same temperature as that of a normal human body - is this just a mere coincidence?) The ideal temperature for storage is from 70 to 85 degrees F. A good way to store seeds is in a small, airtight container. Do not store large quantities of seeds in a large container because they may heat up. If the seeds are to be kept for a long period (like over a winter season), it would be a good idea to tape a small packet of silica gel or other dessicating agent to the inside of the container lid to absorb moisture. The dessicating material should not be in contact with the seeds.
Seed Selection
Viable, healthy seeds can usually be spotted from their external appearance. A good seed will be well fleshed-out and not crinkled or cracked. Take some seeds into one hand and rub them between your palms. Good seeds will appear to be glossy and gray, gray-green or gray-brown in color and have a good weight with a fleshy appearance. To further test your seed quality, take the selected seeds you intend to plant and drop them into a pan or bowl with distilled water in it. The healthy seeds will usually have enough mass to cause them to sink (it is recommended that this test be performed just prior to planting because the seeds must be kept dry until ready to germinate.)
It is a good practice to carry your tests for viable seeds beyond just the external examination. Several internal conditions will affect the ability of the seed to germinate and these are not detectable by the appearance and the water test methods. One reliable test is to randomly select a few seeds from the batch that has a good appearance. Crack them open, smell and taste them. If they have a musty, oily taste, they are probably old seeds and are on the verge of going bad. If you notice any seeds which have a black appearance inside, then fermentation has begun to set in and there is very little chance that such seeds will germinate. Conversely, if they look pale and dusty inside then they are old and will have a low germination rate and produce feeble, sickly plants at best. Perhaps the most reliable test, if you start your selection testing well in advance of planting time, is to simply germinate a small group of randomly selected seeds from those which appear healthy. This will give you a fairly accurate estimate of what to expect from your batch of selected seeds after planting. A germination percentage above 50% is considered excellent for seeds acquired on the streets of North America these days.
Preparation and Planting
When you have tested your seeds and selected those which exhibit signs of vitality, a couple of planting steps will help to ensure that your crop will get a good start with the best chances for survival and healthy growth. The first step is to soak your seeds overnight (about 12-16 hours) in clean water at room temperature. If you are in the city, it is recommended that you invest in a jug of store-bought distilled water for this. You will avoid the chemicals and other crap that is added to city tap water which could possibly damage the delicate, swelling embryo. The seeds will be swollen and tender after the overnight soaking and it is recommended that they only be handled gently with sterilized tweezers after they have been in the soaking bath. This will protect the now swollen, delicate embryo from internal damage and possible infections. The seeds should be carefully removed from the soaking container by picking them up with the lightest touch by grasping the sides with the tweezers - not the ends. Any pressure applied to the softened, swollen seed ends could cause permanent or fatal damage to the embryo root.
 The seed should be placed with the POINTED END UP into a prepared germination bed at a depth of 1/2 to 3/4 inch. The embryo tap root emerges from the pointed (stylar) end and the natural method of growth is for this root to make a turn and grow downward (see the illustration at left.) This bend formed by the downward curve of the taproot is what emerges from the soil and the friction of dragging the seed upward helps the new plant to loosen and cast off the seed case when it breaks through the surface. If the seed is placed with the pointed end down, the embryo will be required to expend a great deal of its stored energy for twisting and turning to position the tap root when it realizes that it is heading the wrong way (see illus. at right.) The seedling will need this energy to exert the forces required to later lift its head (now enclosed by the two halves of the seed case) above the soil, cast off the seed case and then spread its two embryo leaves and begin the life-giving photosynthetic process. This is a critical stage in growth and carelessness in placing the seed will exhaust even the most hearty seedling and result in a slow start and a feeble plant in later life. The seed should be placed in a small hole at a depth of 1/2 to 3/4 inch. An excellent medium for germination is a mixture of rich humus and fine sand, such as the type used for aquariums. The soil needs a ph of 7.5 to 8.0 and should not be so moist that it sticks to your fingers. If the medium is too moist, the seeds will rot and ferment before they can sprout. A simple test for moisture is to stick a pencil into the soil and if soil adheres to it when removed, then it is too moist. Sort of like when you test a cake by sticking a straw into it to see if it is baked through to the middle. The ideal is not too moist, and not too dry - and be sure that the soil is well-drained.
The ideal temperature for germination is between 65 and 75 degrees F. Research has shown that a soil temperature that is at, or slightly above, the air temperature promotes the best survival rates and growth. If you want to experiment, you can try constructing a germination bed which is bottom heated to attain a soil temperature slightly above the air temperature. This will promote rapid seedling growth and development. A well-stocked nursery will probably have such equipment, or can order it for you if you can afford the extra expense and want the best for your seedlings. If you germinate outdoors, you can achieve this effect with black plastic or other dark soil cover material which will absorb solar heat and warm the soil.
The Six Stages of Seedling Growth
The germination process for cannabis seedlings goes through distinct stages of growth and development. You can use the following time table to monitor how your seedlings progress. The table is divided into six stages of development and you should check your seedlings to be sure that they follow the approximate time line described. You will save yourself weeks of work and disappointments if you spot any problems early and remedy them. Remember that the times given are approximate and will be altered slightly by such factors as temperature, humidity, etc. - but your seedlings should go through each stage close to the times indicated in the table.
 STAGE 1 - At germination the seed case splits, but the two halves remain together as the primary tap root emerges from the stylar (pointed) end. The developing embryo leaves remain protected under the soil by the seed case around them. The primary tap root curves as it emerges from the seed casing and undergoes rapid growth during this period as it seeks to go straight downward into the soil.
STAGE 2 - Approximately 48 hours after germination the tap root has grown to about 1.5 inches and the primary root growth slows as fine lateral roots begin to develop.
STAGE 3 - (see illustration) Between 72 to 96 hours from germination, a fine lateral root system has started to develop just beneath the soil surface. The seedling concentrates its remaining energy into forcing its way above the surface and exerts pressure to crack the seed case and cast it off when it emerges.
STAGE 4 - (see illustration) The seedling stem begins to stand erect on the fifth day. The seed casing is cast off or has remained at the soil surface when the seedling emerged. The embryo leaves are now spread out. These leaves are oval in shape and look somewhat smooth. They should be a yellow-green color when they first open and have a moist, waxy appearance. The seedling will turn to orient the embryo leaves to the light source.
STAGE 5 - Photosynthesis has begun and the embryo leaves have become more green in color. The stem below the embryo leaves grows steadily from day 5 to day 10 and should reach the height of 1 to 1.5 inches above the soil surface. The first pair of simple foiliage leaves will develop during this period. They will appear at the center of the embryo leaves and be oriented at right angles to them. The foliage leaves are slightly oval, elongated, and are distinctly serrated. The stem now lengthens above the embryo leaf pair. The second and third pairs of foliage leaves should appear by day 12.
STAGE 6 - The embryo leaves, which have functioned as food storage organs for the emerging seedling and have started photosynthesis for the young plant, are no longer required and will begin to turn yellow, wither and fall away during the early part of the third week of growth. A fine lateral root system has developed beneath the soil surface to bring nutrients and moisture to the young plant. The seedling is now well on its way to becoming an adult cannabis plant.
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Please note that the "Green Thumb" section of the Contigo-Conmigo website will be continually updated and expanded with information and helpful tips on growing medical marijuana. Some of the topics planned for the near future include hydroponics, the use of artificial grow lights, nutrients and signs of deficiencies, diseases and pests which attack the cannabis plant, indoor vs. outdoor cultivation, etc. We will attempt to provide the best scientific information in an easy to understand format so you can grow your own supply of medical marijuana. If you have any questions, or would like to suggest a topic for the Green Thumb, please go to the Home page and click on the "Contact" button to send us an E-mail. We want to hear about your problems and solutions for growing cannabis. Better still, if you have any experience or expertise with gardening or growing cannabis, we would appreciate any help or suggestions you would care to offer. This information is intended to help patients obtain their supply of a natural medication that is not available from any other source, so your help will be greatly appreciated by a lot of people who cannot obtain assistance anywhere else.
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